Now Romania is part of the European Union, a palpable sense of change has gripped it. Bucharest, always lagging behind other metropolises in Europe, is starting to make up for lost time, and modernising. The historic heart of Bucharest, Lipscani, stands to get a major face-lift, as old buildings are tarted up to make way for snazzy hotels and restaurants. At the end of the 19th century, Lipscani's glam baroque/ renaissance buildings and sophisticated cafe culture helped spread the reputation of Bucharest as one of Eastern Europe's jewels; dubbed a "Paris of the East." Lipscani is the only part of Bucharest where remnants of this time survive. For those worried about the character of the district in the wake of development, Caru Cu Bere is a heartening reminder of Bucharest's glory days.
Dream Restaurant for First Time Bucharest Visit
A first-time visitor to Bucharest could do little better for an introduction to the city than eating here at the most lavish-looking restaurant in the Romania Capital. In a district famed for its excellent eating, Caru Cu Bere sticks out. It's a gentle immersion into Romanian culture. It serves traditional, rather than westernised food, plays traditional Romanian music and even features regional dances performed by serving staff. But it's the interior itself that is most impressive: with high arched ceilings hung with chandeliers, frescoes, gilted overhanging balconies and stained glass windows, it's a welcome break from the chaos of central Bucharest.
Beerhouse and Restaurant in the Romania Capital Since 1879
Caru Cu Bere translates as "Cart of Beer" and since it opened in 1879, as a dining place for the many merchants gravitating to the Lipscani district that was then a leading hub of trade in Eastern Europe, it has served not only as a restaurant, but also as a brewery. The legend of a former cellarman, known as Ghita, is depicted on one of the cross beams, and the restaurant still brews its own, perfectly decent beer today (from a secret recipe).
From the beginning the restaurant attracted wealthy outsiders and Romanians wishing to impress their guests and Caru Cu Bere has changed little in terms of clientele. Its touristy air is a criticism levelled against it, but this is touristy by the standards of a city that sees far less tourism than most capitals of Europe. In any case the restaurant is vast enough to absorb the crowds.
Dining at Caru Cu Bere
The Caru Cu Bere menu features mainly traditional dishes, and food comes in huge portions. There is cuisine from rural Romania, such as the Bucovina region, but also has tasty set menus. The Lord's Dish is comprised of ragu, beans and sausages whilst the delightful Bucur's Dish is mincemeat stuffed into squash doused in grated cheese. Whilst expensive for Romania, a meal out here is a still very reasonable, with huge main courses no more than £6.50 or € 7.75.
There may be many more traditional restaurants in the neighbourhood serving better food, and at lower prices, such as the recommended Gara Lipscani (Lipscani 38). None, however, have the elegant ambience and historic setting of Caru Cu Bere.
- Caru Cu Bere address: Stavropoleos 5
- Caru Cu Bere telephone: (40) 21 313 75 60
- Opening Hours: 8am-12 midnight (Mon-Thurs & Sun), 8am-2am (Fri and Sat), Live music Fri-Sun
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Luke Waterson - Author Luke Waterson writes, or has written, for various publications including Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, Moon Guidebooks and The ...
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